NYC Dining: Babbo.

First published August 18th, 1999

Babbo by Alex Whitney

Babbo has some qualities that I'm very fond of, at first blush -- qualities such as a dual-environment for eating, upstairs and downstairs; proximity to my home, within a heavy-meal stroll of Washington Square Park; and an informal atmosphere, no jackets required. That is not the point. The food is wonderful. And, while some have criticized the service, I can't fairly say that ours wasn't the best I've had so far. Only James at Jean-Georges rivals the service I received from Amanda at Babbo, and he's cheating from remembering me at Restaurant Bouley. It was a bit informal, with waiters and visiting friends talking in a corner of the room, bartenders who weren't afraid to crack a joke, and folks sitting down in polo shirts. Quite comfortable, really.

I know little about Italian wines. A certain background in Latin usually assists me in moving from French to German to English, but Italian, for some reason, fails me, and I feel awkward pronouncing the dishes, struggling over multiple vowels like I was still in 6th Grade trying to say "agricolae, agricolarum, agricolis, agricolas, agricolis," ten times fast. The menu descriptions come with some English translation (as one would expect,) and the choices are (unexpectedly) entrancing, adventurous, and sometimes "reliable with a twist."

There were a dozen Antipasti, eleven Primi, and ten Secondi dishes, some intruging salads/sides, and quite a few specials. If you didn't like these, there is a Pasta and a Traditional Tasting Menu, which are both exciting.

I pondered rather too long over the menu, particularly pausing over the Traditional Tasting Menu... but the a la carte choices were too good looking. The tasting menu seemed a little safe, or a little more like Italian versions of other base dishes like salmon and squab, and it was only 8 courses (four main courses), and while the matching wines were tempting, I'd have to drink six different glasses. I didn't yet suspect how fascinating the wines were going to be. I was completely unawares, as it were. Innocent. Unsullied.

I meandered through some real temptress Antipasti: the Warm Lamb's Tongue Vinaigrette with Chanterelles, Pecorino Toscano, and a 3-Minute Egg; a Warm Tripe "alla Parmigiana," and several things that had to be explained. The Primi had enchanting mint dishes: Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage, and a Mint Tagliatelle with five Onions (five onions!) and Ricotta Salad, and some more devilishly hard to resist pasta: Goose Liver Ravioli with Balsamic Vinegar and Brown Butter, and Linguine with Clams, Pancetta and Hot Chilis.

Secondi, Contorni (sides...) and Specials were equally torturous. Grilled Rabbit with Fennel, Green Olives and Preserved Lemons; Spicy Two Minute Calamari, Sicilian Lifeguard Style; Rapini with roasted garlic; Marinated Bacala with Purslane and Summer truffles; and Homemade "testina" with First Apples and Salsa Verde - these were the dishes I am going back for. And after I've done all of them, including the Bucatini all'Amatriciana with Guanciale, Hot Pepper and Pecorino, if they still have it, then I'll have the tasting menu. They've got you thinking, haven't they? You want to know what some of them are. You wonder how to pronounce them. You are getting very hungry. The crusty Italian Bread has vanished in your stomach, replaced by an elemental form of curiosity. Hasn't it?!

Eric settled on Steamed Cockles with Red Chilies and Opal Basil; Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage; Grilled Lamb Chops "Scottadita" with Zucchini, Shitake, and Lemon Balm Pesto. We split a Contorni, and while I ordered the Marinated Fresh Anchovies (think: no salt) with Yellow Finns and Lobster Oil; Beef Cheek Ravioli with Crushed Squab Liver and Black Truffles, Fennel Dusted Sweetbreads with Sweet and Sour Onions, Duck Pancetta, and membrillio vinegar. Conversation and food developed in a fine flow throughout the evening, timing was good, service was excellent. Its a wonder we didn't break into song.

Which means its time for wine. We told our knowledgeable, detail oriented, professional waitress that I wanted something interesting, and she was able to pick two of the most unusual, delicious and well matched wines that I have had in the last 6 months, contrasting them with bolder whites, milder reds, and steering past some more standard choices to find just what I wanted. I was surprised to find that the list had been trimmed down in the last few months. Lost, I asked for help, and got choices that impressed me much more than similar reccomendations at Le Cirque 2000, once at Cafe Boulud, and Daniel, and moreover, showed that I was being listened to. She suggested a white 1998 Sauvignon Mockhof, and a red 1985 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo turano nuovo by a small producer whose name I wish I had written down.

My notes on dessert are vague as well, but I remember a fine wine, sweet and hinting at liquorice; and a glass of Fernet Branca, a favorite of mine. So I'll go back and write some more, below, filling out this part of our ongoing adventure. Better yet, go find out about the Pasta Tasing menu and the Specials, also shamefully neglected here.