Veritas by Alex Whitney
First published 4/24/2001
Go to Veritas. Quick, before you all read this.
Veritas gets top honors for eating at the bar, a highly underrated endeavor. Eating at the bar allows you to chat with the bartender, a revealing exercise; you get to chat with the regulars next to you, discouraged at tables at more conceited places. There are other advantages. The regulars are faithful and charming, for example. Discover for yourselves.
That's not all! Go to Veritas to read the wine list. Its like a novel. A discussion with the sommelier is one where you listen closely and explore what he is thinking and has to say. Go to Veritas because the food is excellent. Go because the service is more than competent, friendly, and knowledgeable. Go because you can have an adventure in wine for less than $20 a bottle. Go because the food is so good, you say, "Can I have another bite of that?"
I would say the best appetizers are Warm green & white asparagus with sautéed chanterelles and truffle fondue, and the Oysters, described below, which are popular, but not on the menu. To say these are favorites might make you think I'm disparaging Roasted sweetbreads, with marinated shitakes, ginger and soy sauce. Or, for that matter, the Chilled lobster salad with asparagus, fava bean puree, Ligurian olive oil, and vieux sherry vinegar. As with the main courses, the flavors are complex, balanced against each other.
On the oysters: best left to Steve Levine who said:
"A popular favorite (or so we were told) was my dish of Belon oysters poached in truffle oil, served in a creamy broth with Riesling, chive, and tiny pieces of fingerling potato. I can definitely see why it would be. This plate reeked of truffles, and had abundant leeks and potatoes in a broth so good that we had to hold onto my plate until we'd soaked up every drop with some of that classic Tuscan bread with no salt. The oysters themselves melted into a truffly velvet in our mouths." If I didn't live so close, I could have killed Steve for the Oyster dish.
The best reason to go to Veritas is to solve a recent debate mentioned by the respected Ruth Reichel: Is it about the food or about the wine? Ruth seems to be of the opinion that the wine shouldn't be more important, and Veritas begs to differ slightly... the wine and food are a harmony, and Veritas allows one to experiment with a balance of wine with the food, seeing what compliments each, with a variety that you might not have had courage to try before, given the prices. Their Alsatian (which they consistently spell Alsacian,) collection is almost fiendish, especially at $15-$20 for a great bottle. They aren't getting rich on the wine.
The main dishes are equally delectable: Steve had Seared Maine Diver Scallops, with a truffle chive potato puree, pea shoots and perigord black truffle vinaigrette: three immense scallops seared brown on the outside, tender and rare on the inside, redolent with truffle, a lovely counterpoint in the vinaigrette, a nice variation of texture and flavor. I had Grilled Fillet of Beef, deliciously rare, the most tender and delicious really rare piece of meat I've ever had, surrounded by glazed carrots, a small pile of haricots verts, two decent, rich and velvety pieces of marrow, and a rich red wine and black pepper sauce. It went marvelously with a Pinot Noir that matched both dishes surprisingly well. The sommelier, apparently a genius at his profession, pointed out that ancient leathery Bordeaux's might not be the best match for rich beef or lamb dishes, given the subtlety of the wines that are often chosen with them.
This is a great dining experience, a great value for the buck, as good as Gramercy Tavern across the street, maybe better as crowded as it is, and a fierce competitor in the Union Square area, which has ferocious representation in the Union Square Cafe, Gotham, Patria, Union Pacific, the Aqua Grill, and others. I like it better, thanks to the sommelier and the staff.
Friday, November 03, 2006
NYC Dining: Babbo.
First published August 18th, 1999
Babbo by Alex Whitney
Babbo has some qualities that I'm very fond of, at first blush -- qualities such as a dual-environment for eating, upstairs and downstairs; proximity to my home, within a heavy-meal stroll of Washington Square Park; and an informal atmosphere, no jackets required. That is not the point. The food is wonderful. And, while some have criticized the service, I can't fairly say that ours wasn't the best I've had so far. Only James at Jean-Georges rivals the service I received from Amanda at Babbo, and he's cheating from remembering me at Restaurant Bouley. It was a bit informal, with waiters and visiting friends talking in a corner of the room, bartenders who weren't afraid to crack a joke, and folks sitting down in polo shirts. Quite comfortable, really.
I know little about Italian wines. A certain background in Latin usually assists me in moving from French to German to English, but Italian, for some reason, fails me, and I feel awkward pronouncing the dishes, struggling over multiple vowels like I was still in 6th Grade trying to say "agricolae, agricolarum, agricolis, agricolas, agricolis," ten times fast. The menu descriptions come with some English translation (as one would expect,) and the choices are (unexpectedly) entrancing, adventurous, and sometimes "reliable with a twist."
There were a dozen Antipasti, eleven Primi, and ten Secondi dishes, some intruging salads/sides, and quite a few specials. If you didn't like these, there is a Pasta and a Traditional Tasting Menu, which are both exciting.
I pondered rather too long over the menu, particularly pausing over the Traditional Tasting Menu... but the a la carte choices were too good looking. The tasting menu seemed a little safe, or a little more like Italian versions of other base dishes like salmon and squab, and it was only 8 courses (four main courses), and while the matching wines were tempting, I'd have to drink six different glasses. I didn't yet suspect how fascinating the wines were going to be. I was completely unawares, as it were. Innocent. Unsullied.
I meandered through some real temptress Antipasti: the Warm Lamb's Tongue Vinaigrette with Chanterelles, Pecorino Toscano, and a 3-Minute Egg; a Warm Tripe "alla Parmigiana," and several things that had to be explained. The Primi had enchanting mint dishes: Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage, and a Mint Tagliatelle with five Onions (five onions!) and Ricotta Salad, and some more devilishly hard to resist pasta: Goose Liver Ravioli with Balsamic Vinegar and Brown Butter, and Linguine with Clams, Pancetta and Hot Chilis.
Secondi, Contorni (sides...) and Specials were equally torturous. Grilled Rabbit with Fennel, Green Olives and Preserved Lemons; Spicy Two Minute Calamari, Sicilian Lifeguard Style; Rapini with roasted garlic; Marinated Bacala with Purslane and Summer truffles; and Homemade "testina" with First Apples and Salsa Verde - these were the dishes I am going back for. And after I've done all of them, including the Bucatini all'Amatriciana with Guanciale, Hot Pepper and Pecorino, if they still have it, then I'll have the tasting menu. They've got you thinking, haven't they? You want to know what some of them are. You wonder how to pronounce them. You are getting very hungry. The crusty Italian Bread has vanished in your stomach, replaced by an elemental form of curiosity. Hasn't it?!
Eric settled on Steamed Cockles with Red Chilies and Opal Basil; Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage; Grilled Lamb Chops "Scottadita" with Zucchini, Shitake, and Lemon Balm Pesto. We split a Contorni, and while I ordered the Marinated Fresh Anchovies (think: no salt) with Yellow Finns and Lobster Oil; Beef Cheek Ravioli with Crushed Squab Liver and Black Truffles, Fennel Dusted Sweetbreads with Sweet and Sour Onions, Duck Pancetta, and membrillio vinegar. Conversation and food developed in a fine flow throughout the evening, timing was good, service was excellent. Its a wonder we didn't break into song.
Which means its time for wine. We told our knowledgeable, detail oriented, professional waitress that I wanted something interesting, and she was able to pick two of the most unusual, delicious and well matched wines that I have had in the last 6 months, contrasting them with bolder whites, milder reds, and steering past some more standard choices to find just what I wanted. I was surprised to find that the list had been trimmed down in the last few months. Lost, I asked for help, and got choices that impressed me much more than similar reccomendations at Le Cirque 2000, once at Cafe Boulud, and Daniel, and moreover, showed that I was being listened to. She suggested a white 1998 Sauvignon Mockhof, and a red 1985 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo turano nuovo by a small producer whose name I wish I had written down.
My notes on dessert are vague as well, but I remember a fine wine, sweet and hinting at liquorice; and a glass of Fernet Branca, a favorite of mine. So I'll go back and write some more, below, filling out this part of our ongoing adventure. Better yet, go find out about the Pasta Tasing menu and the Specials, also shamefully neglected here.
Babbo by Alex Whitney
Babbo has some qualities that I'm very fond of, at first blush -- qualities such as a dual-environment for eating, upstairs and downstairs; proximity to my home, within a heavy-meal stroll of Washington Square Park; and an informal atmosphere, no jackets required. That is not the point. The food is wonderful. And, while some have criticized the service, I can't fairly say that ours wasn't the best I've had so far. Only James at Jean-Georges rivals the service I received from Amanda at Babbo, and he's cheating from remembering me at Restaurant Bouley. It was a bit informal, with waiters and visiting friends talking in a corner of the room, bartenders who weren't afraid to crack a joke, and folks sitting down in polo shirts. Quite comfortable, really.
I know little about Italian wines. A certain background in Latin usually assists me in moving from French to German to English, but Italian, for some reason, fails me, and I feel awkward pronouncing the dishes, struggling over multiple vowels like I was still in 6th Grade trying to say "agricolae, agricolarum, agricolis, agricolas, agricolis," ten times fast. The menu descriptions come with some English translation (as one would expect,) and the choices are (unexpectedly) entrancing, adventurous, and sometimes "reliable with a twist."
There were a dozen Antipasti, eleven Primi, and ten Secondi dishes, some intruging salads/sides, and quite a few specials. If you didn't like these, there is a Pasta and a Traditional Tasting Menu, which are both exciting.
I pondered rather too long over the menu, particularly pausing over the Traditional Tasting Menu... but the a la carte choices were too good looking. The tasting menu seemed a little safe, or a little more like Italian versions of other base dishes like salmon and squab, and it was only 8 courses (four main courses), and while the matching wines were tempting, I'd have to drink six different glasses. I didn't yet suspect how fascinating the wines were going to be. I was completely unawares, as it were. Innocent. Unsullied.
I meandered through some real temptress Antipasti: the Warm Lamb's Tongue Vinaigrette with Chanterelles, Pecorino Toscano, and a 3-Minute Egg; a Warm Tripe "alla Parmigiana," and several things that had to be explained. The Primi had enchanting mint dishes: Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage, and a Mint Tagliatelle with five Onions (five onions!) and Ricotta Salad, and some more devilishly hard to resist pasta: Goose Liver Ravioli with Balsamic Vinegar and Brown Butter, and Linguine with Clams, Pancetta and Hot Chilis.
Secondi, Contorni (sides...) and Specials were equally torturous. Grilled Rabbit with Fennel, Green Olives and Preserved Lemons; Spicy Two Minute Calamari, Sicilian Lifeguard Style; Rapini with roasted garlic; Marinated Bacala with Purslane and Summer truffles; and Homemade "testina" with First Apples and Salsa Verde - these were the dishes I am going back for. And after I've done all of them, including the Bucatini all'Amatriciana with Guanciale, Hot Pepper and Pecorino, if they still have it, then I'll have the tasting menu. They've got you thinking, haven't they? You want to know what some of them are. You wonder how to pronounce them. You are getting very hungry. The crusty Italian Bread has vanished in your stomach, replaced by an elemental form of curiosity. Hasn't it?!
Eric settled on Steamed Cockles with Red Chilies and Opal Basil; Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage; Grilled Lamb Chops "Scottadita" with Zucchini, Shitake, and Lemon Balm Pesto. We split a Contorni, and while I ordered the Marinated Fresh Anchovies (think: no salt) with Yellow Finns and Lobster Oil; Beef Cheek Ravioli with Crushed Squab Liver and Black Truffles, Fennel Dusted Sweetbreads with Sweet and Sour Onions, Duck Pancetta, and membrillio vinegar. Conversation and food developed in a fine flow throughout the evening, timing was good, service was excellent. Its a wonder we didn't break into song.
Which means its time for wine. We told our knowledgeable, detail oriented, professional waitress that I wanted something interesting, and she was able to pick two of the most unusual, delicious and well matched wines that I have had in the last 6 months, contrasting them with bolder whites, milder reds, and steering past some more standard choices to find just what I wanted. I was surprised to find that the list had been trimmed down in the last few months. Lost, I asked for help, and got choices that impressed me much more than similar reccomendations at Le Cirque 2000, once at Cafe Boulud, and Daniel, and moreover, showed that I was being listened to. She suggested a white 1998 Sauvignon Mockhof, and a red 1985 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo turano nuovo by a small producer whose name I wish I had written down.
My notes on dessert are vague as well, but I remember a fine wine, sweet and hinting at liquorice; and a glass of Fernet Branca, a favorite of mine. So I'll go back and write some more, below, filling out this part of our ongoing adventure. Better yet, go find out about the Pasta Tasing menu and the Specials, also shamefully neglected here.
NYC Dining: Gramercy Tavern.
By Alex Whitney, 7/5/01
Last visited October, 2006.
It says several things that when you walk into Gramercy Tavern, a small table displays the menus. They have thought through the fact that you may wish to look at them while you wait. It says that it is possible that you will wait... I have not waited long, but many people must, as it is always packed after 5 PM. It hints that they are proud of the menus, and well they should be, as they are finely crafted, broad in reach, rich in content.
You stare across the red and brown room, noting the joyful crowd bustling through drinks — beer and unique, pleasant frou-frou martini glass things — and meals. Simple plates of oysters wink at you from one table; that fellow over there is either listening intently, or lost in a filet mignon, which sits on top of a pile of potatoes, and is itself crowned by a balsamic-onion relish. This young lady is having a delicate grilled quail, and every time she has a bit with the cornbread stuffing, her eyes close, and her head tilts back in pleasure. The dècor is highlighted by splashes of rust and yellow and green, plants on the bar and painting around the edge of the high ceiling. You look back at the menus. There are five or six of them. One is for cheese. This is gonna be just fine, you think to yourself. No problem.
Gramercy Tavern is actually two restaurants in one. In the front part is the Tavern Grill, and from the middle to the back is the (slightly) more formal restaurant. The bar/grill section has a smaller, simpler menu focused on lighter foods, mostly from the large open grill situated near the hostess’ station. This is generally where the walk-ins or those at the bar eat. In the main restaurant, the menu is at least twice as large, and the items more complex. Both are excellent in their own right, so if you wish to experience Gramercy Tavern properly, plan on making at least two visits.
I came as part of a group of eight excited people. Even a group of six can stress a poorly trained or equipped staff; I’ve been to the bar to eat with friends quite a few times, and service has always been decent, the food a wonder. Some of the items that stood out were the aforementioned filet, a succulent braised lamb shank with spring vegetables, a large, beautifully dressed soft-shell crab sandwich, and a simple cassoulet of white beans and bacon, with lots of fresh herbs. But this was the back dining room, an entirely different state of affairs.
Our table was in the center of the back dining room. I had called ahead and had a bottle of far too young Burgundy opened, and had ordered a couple of bottles of Champagne, to warm everyone up and get them loose and chatting. Some people didn’t drink much at all: The waiters observed this and didn’t accost them with more than a little of each wine; they also handled a vegetarian at the table with smoothness, even aplomb. All night long the staff kept up an unobtrusive, informative coordinated front, keeping the side plated filled with the (rather average) bread, water glasses full, plates all arriving simultaneously.
Wine service was excellent; the white Burgundy, a 1989 Corton-Charlemagne, better for having been decanted. Corton-Charlemagne is named after the Emperor, to whose wife we owe a great debt: he owned the vineyards in Côte D’Or where this excellent wine comes from, and in about 770 AD had them planted with white grapes at her request.
The food — well the food was something else. My tortured group pondered the tasting menu, but went a la carte, picking a first course and then something from the lists labeled “FISH” and “MEAT & FOWL”. Sweetbreads were passed on, this group not being at the organ meat level, but things like Hamachi, Scallops and Lobster went over well.
Root vegetables and purees surrounded these, with interesting spices complimenting and accenting: curry, cardamom, lemon vinaigrette. This menu changes with the seasons, and uses occasional tricks to make certain things more easily ordered and appreciated: pork belly is called Fresh Bacon, for example.
The first courses lists something for everyone. There is the omnipresent tuna tartare, other fish courses, game dishes like an elegant partridge roll served in consommè, and vegetable-only courses such as a sophisticated Heirloom Tomatoes with Consommè, a spoft Tomato Sorbet and an Herb Salad; Braised Zucchini with Olives, deep red Roasted Tomatoes and crunchy Fried Zucchini Blossoms; and a very light Potato Agnolotti with Sweet Corn and black Summer Truffles: a vegetarian paradise, filling dishes made with complex, rich flavors.
The fish and meat dishes really shine, especially the Bass and the Salmon, both perfectly cooked. The lamb and sirloin are both twists on a theme, even constructed alike, with slices of wonderful, tender roasted loin piled on top of braised vegetables with a red wine based braising sauce and large shallots. One has potatoes, one does not.
Gramercy is a special place to eat, one where you can hold court with any group you choose to throw at it. As long as you are willing to be pleased, you can be assured that things will go smoothly, as perfectly as they can, and trust the skilled management and staff to do their best. What more can you ask?
Copyright 2006 by A. Whitney. All rights reserved.
Last visited October, 2006.
It says several things that when you walk into Gramercy Tavern, a small table displays the menus. They have thought through the fact that you may wish to look at them while you wait. It says that it is possible that you will wait... I have not waited long, but many people must, as it is always packed after 5 PM. It hints that they are proud of the menus, and well they should be, as they are finely crafted, broad in reach, rich in content.
You stare across the red and brown room, noting the joyful crowd bustling through drinks — beer and unique, pleasant frou-frou martini glass things — and meals. Simple plates of oysters wink at you from one table; that fellow over there is either listening intently, or lost in a filet mignon, which sits on top of a pile of potatoes, and is itself crowned by a balsamic-onion relish. This young lady is having a delicate grilled quail, and every time she has a bit with the cornbread stuffing, her eyes close, and her head tilts back in pleasure. The dècor is highlighted by splashes of rust and yellow and green, plants on the bar and painting around the edge of the high ceiling. You look back at the menus. There are five or six of them. One is for cheese. This is gonna be just fine, you think to yourself. No problem.
Gramercy Tavern is actually two restaurants in one. In the front part is the Tavern Grill, and from the middle to the back is the (slightly) more formal restaurant. The bar/grill section has a smaller, simpler menu focused on lighter foods, mostly from the large open grill situated near the hostess’ station. This is generally where the walk-ins or those at the bar eat. In the main restaurant, the menu is at least twice as large, and the items more complex. Both are excellent in their own right, so if you wish to experience Gramercy Tavern properly, plan on making at least two visits.
I came as part of a group of eight excited people. Even a group of six can stress a poorly trained or equipped staff; I’ve been to the bar to eat with friends quite a few times, and service has always been decent, the food a wonder. Some of the items that stood out were the aforementioned filet, a succulent braised lamb shank with spring vegetables, a large, beautifully dressed soft-shell crab sandwich, and a simple cassoulet of white beans and bacon, with lots of fresh herbs. But this was the back dining room, an entirely different state of affairs.
Our table was in the center of the back dining room. I had called ahead and had a bottle of far too young Burgundy opened, and had ordered a couple of bottles of Champagne, to warm everyone up and get them loose and chatting. Some people didn’t drink much at all: The waiters observed this and didn’t accost them with more than a little of each wine; they also handled a vegetarian at the table with smoothness, even aplomb. All night long the staff kept up an unobtrusive, informative coordinated front, keeping the side plated filled with the (rather average) bread, water glasses full, plates all arriving simultaneously.
Wine service was excellent; the white Burgundy, a 1989 Corton-Charlemagne, better for having been decanted. Corton-Charlemagne is named after the Emperor, to whose wife we owe a great debt: he owned the vineyards in Côte D’Or where this excellent wine comes from, and in about 770 AD had them planted with white grapes at her request.
The food — well the food was something else. My tortured group pondered the tasting menu, but went a la carte, picking a first course and then something from the lists labeled “FISH” and “MEAT & FOWL”. Sweetbreads were passed on, this group not being at the organ meat level, but things like Hamachi, Scallops and Lobster went over well.
Root vegetables and purees surrounded these, with interesting spices complimenting and accenting: curry, cardamom, lemon vinaigrette. This menu changes with the seasons, and uses occasional tricks to make certain things more easily ordered and appreciated: pork belly is called Fresh Bacon, for example.
The first courses lists something for everyone. There is the omnipresent tuna tartare, other fish courses, game dishes like an elegant partridge roll served in consommè, and vegetable-only courses such as a sophisticated Heirloom Tomatoes with Consommè, a spoft Tomato Sorbet and an Herb Salad; Braised Zucchini with Olives, deep red Roasted Tomatoes and crunchy Fried Zucchini Blossoms; and a very light Potato Agnolotti with Sweet Corn and black Summer Truffles: a vegetarian paradise, filling dishes made with complex, rich flavors.
The fish and meat dishes really shine, especially the Bass and the Salmon, both perfectly cooked. The lamb and sirloin are both twists on a theme, even constructed alike, with slices of wonderful, tender roasted loin piled on top of braised vegetables with a red wine based braising sauce and large shallots. One has potatoes, one does not.
Gramercy is a special place to eat, one where you can hold court with any group you choose to throw at it. As long as you are willing to be pleased, you can be assured that things will go smoothly, as perfectly as they can, and trust the skilled management and staff to do their best. What more can you ask?
Copyright 2006 by A. Whitney. All rights reserved.
NYC Dining: The Oyster Bar at Grand Central.
Originaly published May 29th, 2000.
By Alex Whitney
I have eaten at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal about twenty times in the last year. I work[ed - Edited 11/2006] close by, and it is easy to go down ad grab a table, or sit in the bar in back through the swinging saloon doors, or sit at the counters. Best, though, is to sit at the shucking bar, ordering this and that as it occurs to you. This is not haute cuisine: this is chowhounding.
Service and quality can be inconsistent, especially back in the pub area; it can be a bit slow at the counters and in the restaurant proper. The restaurant proper also has a very large, famously tiled ceiling, making it potentially loud during the lunch and dinner rush.
Nonetheless, it has some of the best raw Oysters in New York City, and you can pull a Diamond Jim Brady if you like... I have. Sit about six inches back from the counter, undo your belt, and order six different kinds of oyster by the dozen and Riesling for you and a few friends until you feel your belly touch the edge of the table. There is a great selection, including (but certainly not limited to) oysters from Maine, Washington State, Rhode Island, Long Island, Nova Scotia, and even New Zealand.
The makeup changes daily, so telling you what to get here won't work, but the tastes range from strong sea-tasting, mineral oysters, to smooth, buttery Malpeques. Sizes also vary: you can get something the size of a large golf ball that you'll have to chew and chew, or a more modest Belon or Kymoto oyster, a tiny taste that gets a single compression before sliding down. You get mignonette sauce, a red wine vinegar with shallots, and slightly more traditional cocktail sauce, with lemon and more horseradish and tobasco on the side if you want to tweak your topping.
We can do a little better steering you in the main courses. The fish are almost always a bit overcooked, but it isn't terrible. Good examples from their list, which also changes daily, are Arctic Char, the whole Dover Sole, Monkfish with Hollandaise sauce and the Sturgeon with Anchovy Butter. You may not notice the sauce (I have yet to see actual Meuniere sauce on the Dover Sole Meuniere,) but the fish is fresh and served hot, with some typically over-steamed vegetables.
You should not order lobster here. In fact, if I had my way, no one would ever order lobster in a restaurant... its just not right. Professionals eat Lobster at a family table or on the beach, in your painting clothes, with stuff spraying everywhere, in traditional clam-bake style. It ain't restaurant food, as my lobsterboatman grandfather might observe, if he talked that way.
You should try the smokehouse samplers... its not the same as going to Russ and Daughters, but they are great. The Pan Roasts are easily overlooked, but are wonderful: cream and broth are poured into a hot pan with lobster or oysters or mussels added, and a piece of toasted bread is added last minute. Steamers are a part of the clam bake, above, but can be eaten here without shame. The chowders are average. The specials are usually good, but I wonder whether they are pricing old fish to move, or new fish bought in quantity because it is good.
The Oyster Bar at Grand Central is not cheap. You'll pay $18-$25 for a plate of fish, the same for a dozen of oysters, and the pretty good wine list might set you back $15-60. One person can eat simple food, no alcohol for fifty or sixty bucks.
I think its a good idea not to eat Chilean Sea Bass or Swordfish, due to over fishing depleting the stocks. The NRDC says other overfished species include: Atlantic Cod, Atlantic Sea Scallops, Black Sea Bass, Redfish, Red Snapper, Monkfish, Shark (which are finned,) Sturgeon, and Lemon Sole. Better choices are Alaska Salmon, Pacific Coast Dungeness Crab, and Trapped Shrimp.
Copyright 1999 by Eatmenyc. All rights reserved.
By Alex Whitney
I have eaten at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal about twenty times in the last year. I work[ed - Edited 11/2006] close by, and it is easy to go down ad grab a table, or sit in the bar in back through the swinging saloon doors, or sit at the counters. Best, though, is to sit at the shucking bar, ordering this and that as it occurs to you. This is not haute cuisine: this is chowhounding.
Service and quality can be inconsistent, especially back in the pub area; it can be a bit slow at the counters and in the restaurant proper. The restaurant proper also has a very large, famously tiled ceiling, making it potentially loud during the lunch and dinner rush.
Nonetheless, it has some of the best raw Oysters in New York City, and you can pull a Diamond Jim Brady if you like... I have. Sit about six inches back from the counter, undo your belt, and order six different kinds of oyster by the dozen and Riesling for you and a few friends until you feel your belly touch the edge of the table. There is a great selection, including (but certainly not limited to) oysters from Maine, Washington State, Rhode Island, Long Island, Nova Scotia, and even New Zealand.
The makeup changes daily, so telling you what to get here won't work, but the tastes range from strong sea-tasting, mineral oysters, to smooth, buttery Malpeques. Sizes also vary: you can get something the size of a large golf ball that you'll have to chew and chew, or a more modest Belon or Kymoto oyster, a tiny taste that gets a single compression before sliding down. You get mignonette sauce, a red wine vinegar with shallots, and slightly more traditional cocktail sauce, with lemon and more horseradish and tobasco on the side if you want to tweak your topping.
We can do a little better steering you in the main courses. The fish are almost always a bit overcooked, but it isn't terrible. Good examples from their list, which also changes daily, are Arctic Char, the whole Dover Sole, Monkfish with Hollandaise sauce and the Sturgeon with Anchovy Butter. You may not notice the sauce (I have yet to see actual Meuniere sauce on the Dover Sole Meuniere,) but the fish is fresh and served hot, with some typically over-steamed vegetables.
You should not order lobster here. In fact, if I had my way, no one would ever order lobster in a restaurant... its just not right. Professionals eat Lobster at a family table or on the beach, in your painting clothes, with stuff spraying everywhere, in traditional clam-bake style. It ain't restaurant food, as my lobsterboatman grandfather might observe, if he talked that way.
You should try the smokehouse samplers... its not the same as going to Russ and Daughters, but they are great. The Pan Roasts are easily overlooked, but are wonderful: cream and broth are poured into a hot pan with lobster or oysters or mussels added, and a piece of toasted bread is added last minute. Steamers are a part of the clam bake, above, but can be eaten here without shame. The chowders are average. The specials are usually good, but I wonder whether they are pricing old fish to move, or new fish bought in quantity because it is good.
The Oyster Bar at Grand Central is not cheap. You'll pay $18-$25 for a plate of fish, the same for a dozen of oysters, and the pretty good wine list might set you back $15-60. One person can eat simple food, no alcohol for fifty or sixty bucks.
I think its a good idea not to eat Chilean Sea Bass or Swordfish, due to over fishing depleting the stocks. The NRDC says other overfished species include: Atlantic Cod, Atlantic Sea Scallops, Black Sea Bass, Redfish, Red Snapper, Monkfish, Shark (which are finned,) Sturgeon, and Lemon Sole. Better choices are Alaska Salmon, Pacific Coast Dungeness Crab, and Trapped Shrimp.
Copyright 1999 by Eatmenyc. All rights reserved.
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