By Alex Whitney, 7/5/01
Last visited October, 2006.
It says several things that when you walk into Gramercy Tavern, a small table displays the menus. They have thought through the fact that you may wish to look at them while you wait. It says that it is possible that you will wait... I have not waited long, but many people must, as it is always packed after 5 PM. It hints that they are proud of the menus, and well they should be, as they are finely crafted, broad in reach, rich in content.
You stare across the red and brown room, noting the joyful crowd bustling through drinks — beer and unique, pleasant frou-frou martini glass things — and meals. Simple plates of oysters wink at you from one table; that fellow over there is either listening intently, or lost in a filet mignon, which sits on top of a pile of potatoes, and is itself crowned by a balsamic-onion relish. This young lady is having a delicate grilled quail, and every time she has a bit with the cornbread stuffing, her eyes close, and her head tilts back in pleasure. The dècor is highlighted by splashes of rust and yellow and green, plants on the bar and painting around the edge of the high ceiling. You look back at the menus. There are five or six of them. One is for cheese. This is gonna be just fine, you think to yourself. No problem.
Gramercy Tavern is actually two restaurants in one. In the front part is the Tavern Grill, and from the middle to the back is the (slightly) more formal restaurant. The bar/grill section has a smaller, simpler menu focused on lighter foods, mostly from the large open grill situated near the hostess’ station. This is generally where the walk-ins or those at the bar eat. In the main restaurant, the menu is at least twice as large, and the items more complex. Both are excellent in their own right, so if you wish to experience Gramercy Tavern properly, plan on making at least two visits.
I came as part of a group of eight excited people. Even a group of six can stress a poorly trained or equipped staff; I’ve been to the bar to eat with friends quite a few times, and service has always been decent, the food a wonder. Some of the items that stood out were the aforementioned filet, a succulent braised lamb shank with spring vegetables, a large, beautifully dressed soft-shell crab sandwich, and a simple cassoulet of white beans and bacon, with lots of fresh herbs. But this was the back dining room, an entirely different state of affairs.
Our table was in the center of the back dining room. I had called ahead and had a bottle of far too young Burgundy opened, and had ordered a couple of bottles of Champagne, to warm everyone up and get them loose and chatting. Some people didn’t drink much at all: The waiters observed this and didn’t accost them with more than a little of each wine; they also handled a vegetarian at the table with smoothness, even aplomb. All night long the staff kept up an unobtrusive, informative coordinated front, keeping the side plated filled with the (rather average) bread, water glasses full, plates all arriving simultaneously.
Wine service was excellent; the white Burgundy, a 1989 Corton-Charlemagne, better for having been decanted. Corton-Charlemagne is named after the Emperor, to whose wife we owe a great debt: he owned the vineyards in Côte D’Or where this excellent wine comes from, and in about 770 AD had them planted with white grapes at her request.
The food — well the food was something else. My tortured group pondered the tasting menu, but went a la carte, picking a first course and then something from the lists labeled “FISH” and “MEAT & FOWL”. Sweetbreads were passed on, this group not being at the organ meat level, but things like Hamachi, Scallops and Lobster went over well.
Root vegetables and purees surrounded these, with interesting spices complimenting and accenting: curry, cardamom, lemon vinaigrette. This menu changes with the seasons, and uses occasional tricks to make certain things more easily ordered and appreciated: pork belly is called Fresh Bacon, for example.
The first courses lists something for everyone. There is the omnipresent tuna tartare, other fish courses, game dishes like an elegant partridge roll served in consommè, and vegetable-only courses such as a sophisticated Heirloom Tomatoes with Consommè, a spoft Tomato Sorbet and an Herb Salad; Braised Zucchini with Olives, deep red Roasted Tomatoes and crunchy Fried Zucchini Blossoms; and a very light Potato Agnolotti with Sweet Corn and black Summer Truffles: a vegetarian paradise, filling dishes made with complex, rich flavors.
The fish and meat dishes really shine, especially the Bass and the Salmon, both perfectly cooked. The lamb and sirloin are both twists on a theme, even constructed alike, with slices of wonderful, tender roasted loin piled on top of braised vegetables with a red wine based braising sauce and large shallots. One has potatoes, one does not.
Gramercy is a special place to eat, one where you can hold court with any group you choose to throw at it. As long as you are willing to be pleased, you can be assured that things will go smoothly, as perfectly as they can, and trust the skilled management and staff to do their best. What more can you ask?
Copyright 2006 by A. Whitney. All rights reserved.
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