NYC Dining: Gotham

Gotham by Alex Whitney

First published April 27th, 2000

Sat at the bar at Gotham last night, near my apartment. I'm fond of going to a nice restaurant and sitting at the bar for a bite. Union Square rings my bell this way, and Gotham has become a new favorite.

We had some drinks at Bar 6 (13th and 6th Ave.,) and while we were walking home along 12th street, vegetarian-Forbes Magazine-Dave said, "How about a bite at Gotham?" as we walked by, to which I replied, "Erm. Ok!"

We went in and sat on the front corner of the bar and I got a lovely chardonnay, a 97 Edna Valley. As is typical of this grape, it had a set of pleasant vanilla overtones, but these were rather flowery and bright - compared to the Beringer with some dark tar overtones and the less flowery Markham 97 - and we pondered the menu.

I am inordinately fond of the fact that Gotham is three blocks from my front door. I'm also pleased with their CitySearch web site... quite informative. Needs to be updated regularly.

We weren't in for a full madness session, just a bite, but there was a moment when I wavered... I think it was when I saw Chinese Spiced Duck Breast, $34, which was described as: "Seared foie gras, caramelized mango, baby bok choy, and snow pea pods." They had some other standards, such as the rack of lamb and an appealing Maine Lobster Tails.

I've never eaten Lobster at a restaurant. I think my grandmother from Maine would spin in her grave - we used to have family clam bakes on Harbor Island in Maine, or in the back yard in Connecticut in the summer, and anything else wouldn't be quite right.

We ordered three apps, one each and one split. Dave got an Atlantic Salmon carpaccio, with Arugula, cremini mushroom and micro green salad, coriander seed, lime and extra virgin olive oil. It was yummy, and so fresh it practically quivered on the plate. I got an order of sweetbreads, which was coated with a bread crumb-like mixture. I have been experimenting with these ever since I got them as a side at Lespinasse, and these were larger and just as delicious.

Gotham Bar and Grill created special trays for people dining at the bar. Chef Al Portable designed ebonized maple bar trays to hook over the brass bar rail, providing a comfortable, square eating space for each guest... unless you lean on the front, which has a catapult like effect on the dish; you are the target. Still, its a nice effect.

Next, we split a grilled and roasted vegetable salad. Eggplant, oven roasted tomatoes, a basil coulis, mache and frise figured prominently; I'm sure there was other stuff in there. A later arrival, Dave's girlfriend, had a tuna dish. I can't remember exactly, but I think it was seared, with rosemary, savory, pappardelle, and caponata. As we waited for dishes, we struck up a lively conversation with the bartender, who provided attentive, timely and intelligent service, and discussed dessert wines. The list was excellent and the prices modest, with the most expensive reaching $700, a far cry from the heady Bordeaux insanity at Le Cirque 2000 or Daniel.

I wrapped up with a deep-dish créme-brule, heavy on the vanilla and served with a citrus compote in a demitasse cup on the side. It was served next to an awesome, world rocking Italian dessert wine, a Maculan Torcolato 95, which went for a mere $14 a glass. If I get to go to heaven, I'm hoping they serve this there.

Six drinks, four dishes and two glasses of desert wine rang up to $190 with tip. I went home happy. What more can one ask for?