Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Veritas, Late Summer 2011

I have been to Veritas three tiems since it got its new management, new chef Sam Hanzen, and face-lift.

I've wanted to like it as much as I did the old one with one of my favorite chefs, Scott Bryant, or even his successor Gregory Pugin who made an awesome tete-de-veau.

However, each time I have been there, the food has been quite a let-down. Now, this is on the basis of just three appetizers, so take it with a grain of salt, but three bad times is three bad times.

Park B. Smith wines are still spectacular, of course - you can always get a great white or red Burgundy, and maybe that's enough... and what you should limit yourself to.

Most recently, I had the "Ocean & Land: Lobster and bone marrow." The lobster had a strongly fishy flavor. Having spent a significant portion of my childhood at clambakes and on (and off) the Maine coast, with a Grandfather and father who both were lobstermen for periods, its not something that the nose can miss. Before that, I had the Beef tartare, and there was an off-flavor to it.

Both times I strongly wanted to order a second dish, but was so put-off I could not, especially not at the current prices, $29-48 bucks, given the risks. Of 10 mains, 7 are more than $35: I thought the new idea was to lower the prices, which hasn't seemed to have worked out. I dont' remember my many meanls of old being quite this steep.

I also have a nameless objection to the style of the Menu, but I can't put a finger on it.

I know Sam Sifton wrote nicely about Veritas on March 15, 2011, but each time I've ordered an appetizer and cancelled the main, or tried an app and been discouraged enough to not order further.

Sorry to say that about Veritas, because the staff is friendly and the service good, but I've been been less than impressed with the cooking.

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